Leather Types, Care & Tips
Leather is a natural material, and how it should be cared for depends on the type of leather, its finish, and how the item is made.
I've worked with many different types of leather for more than 20 years, from delicate lambskin and deerskin to suede, bison, vegetable-tanned cowhide, and more. Over the years, I've also been asked just about every leather-care and repair question imaginable. I've gathered some of that information here to help you better understand, care for, and make informed decisions about your leather goods you own or purchase.
You'll find information about leather care, cleaning, common problems, repair considerations, and the different types of leather I use in my work.
How to Care for Your Leather Garments
Leather clothing can last for many years when properly cared for, but leather should not be treated exactly like fabric. Different hides, finishes, and garment constructions can respond very differently to cleaning, moisture, heat, and conditioning.
For LMC Leather garments, I recommend professional leather cleaning when cleaning is necessary. Traditional dry-cleaning methods intended for fabric are not necessarily appropriate for leather. Leather contains natural oils that contribute to its suppleness and appearance, and improper cleaning can strip those oils from the hide. A professional leather cleaner understands how to clean and properly care for leather garments without compromising the material.
Tips for Keeping Leather Garments Looking Their Best
- Store leather in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. Remove leather garments from plastic packaging when you receive them. Avoid storing leather in plastic bags or in areas exposed to excessive heat or humidity, which can contribute to drying and deterioration of the hide.
- Use a broad or padded hanger to help maintain the shape of leather jackets, coats, pants, and other garments.
- For everyday dust and surface dirt, gently wipe the leather with a soft, slightly damp cloth or sponge. Avoid saturating the leather.
- If leather becomes wet, allow it to dry naturally. Keep it away from radiators, hair dryers, dryers, and other direct sources of heat. Excessive heat can cause leather to dry, stiffen, shrink, or otherwise change.
- Don't assume leather can be ironed like fabric. Heat and pressure can permanently affect some leather finishes. If a leather garment is badly wrinkled or needs pressing, consult a professional who is experienced in working with leather.
- Avoid spraying hairspray, perfume, body sprays, or other harsh products while wearing leather garments. Some ingredients can discolor or damage the finish of the hide.
- Avoid pins, adhesive tape, and other materials that can puncture, pull, or damage the surface of the leather.
- If your leather garment needs alterations, choose someone experienced with leather. Leather behaves differently from fabric, and altering it requires appropriate tools, techniques, and an understanding of how the hide will respond to stitching and stress.
A Note About LMC Leather Garments
In the garments I create, every seam is stitched, hand-knotted, pounded out, and glued down as part of the construction process. Please do not pull on or cut the knots or glued areas. They are an intentional part of the garment's construction and help maintain the integrity of the seams.
How to Care for Your Kama Braided Leather Ring
Each Kama Braided Leather Ring is inspected, cleaned, polished, and conditioned before it is beautifully packaged and shipped to you. With proper care, your ring will soften and develop its own character as you wear it.
- If your Kama Ring feels snug when you first receive it, don't worry. The leather used to make each ring goes through a pre-stretching process before it is braided. If additional stretching is needed, you may safely stretch the ring by lightly wetting the underside—the area that rests against your finger—before wearing it.
- Your ring will soften and mold to your finger over time. This is part of the natural character of leather and one of the things that makes each Kama Ring uniquely yours.
- The leather used in the Kama Ring is extremely durable and can tolerate getting wet. However, the kinder you are to your ring, the longer it will maintain its original appearance.
- To help preserve the leather's color, vibrancy, and finish, avoid unnecessary exposure to soaps, detergents, hand and body creams, harsh sprays, perfumes, oils, and chemicals.
- For everyday dust and dirt, gently wipe the ring with a soft, slightly damp sponge or cloth. A mild detergent may be used when necessary. Always test first in an inconspicuous area.
- Between wears, you can use the leather tag included with your ring for light polishing.
- Lighter-colored leathers may darken over time or when exposed to certain products, leather conditioners, or individual body chemistry. This is a natural characteristic of leather and can vary from person to person.
How to Care for Your Leather Accessories
Your LMC Leather Accessories are inspected, cleaned, polished, and conditioned before they are beautifully packaged and shipped to you. With proper care, your leather accessory can develop a beautiful patina and remain a favorite for years to come.
A few simple habits will help protect your investment:
- Remove your leather item from its packaging when you receive it. For long-term storage, avoid plastic bags and areas exposed to excessive heat or humidity. Leather benefits from being stored in a cool, dry, well-ventilated environment.
- For everyday dust and surface dirt, gently wipe the leather with a soft, slightly damp cloth or sponge. Avoid saturating the leather.
- Some leather benefits from periodic conditioning, but the appropriate conditioner depends on the type and finish of the leather. If you choose to condition your leather accessory, always test the product in an inconspicuous area first and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Conditioners can darken leather or alter its appearance.
- If your leather accessory becomes wet, allow it to dry naturally at room temperature. Keep it away from radiators, hair dryers, dryers, and other direct sources of heat. Once completely dry, determine whether conditioning is appropriate for that particular leather before applying any product.
- Avoid unnecessary exposure to harsh sprays, perfumes, oils, and other chemicals. These products can darken, stain, or otherwise alter the appearance of lighter-colored leather.
- Because leather varies considerably in type, finish, and color, care recommendations for one leather accessory may not be appropriate for another.
A Little Leather Wisdom
When in doubt, don't put something on it just because it says "leather conditioner."
Different leathers and finishes can respond very differently to cleaning and conditioning products. If you're unsure what your leather needs, it's better to identify the type and finish of the leather first—or ask someone experienced with that particular material.
Removing Makeup From Leather
Makeup and cosmetics can be especially frustrating when they land on light-colored leather. Before reaching for a household cleaner or scrubbing at the stain, it's important to consider the type of leather you're dealing with and how it may react to moisture and cleaning products.
I was contacted by a customer who had gotten makeup on her Mayonnaise Kimani Deerskin Leather Tassel Earrings and wanted to know how to safely clean them. I documented the process, including the before-and-after results, so you can see how the leather responded.
You can read the full story in my blog post or watch the video below.
[READ: How to Clean Makeup From Leather Earrings]
https://lisacantalupo.com/blogs/leather-love/how-i-removed-makeup-from-white-leather
A word of caution: Don't assume that the method used successfully on one type of leather will be appropriate for another. Leather type, finish, color, and the nature of the stain can all affect how a cleaning method will perform. When in doubt, test any cleaning method on an inconspicuous area first—or consult someone experienced with the particular leather you're trying to clean.
Scratched or Scuffed Leather: Can It Be Repaired?
Not every scratch or scuff means your leather item is ruined. The type and depth of the damage matter. A light surface scratch may sometimes be softened or blended with an appropriate leather treatment, while a deep scratch, gouge, cut, or area of cracking may require professional repair.
Obenauf's Heavy Duty Leather Preservative is one of my go-to leather-care products. I use it on most of the leather jewelry and accessories I make before they leave my studio, with the exception of suede and certain lighter or highly saturated colors where the product may darken the leather. I've also used it on my own leather sofa for more than 20 years.
That doesn't mean it's appropriate for every leather. Leather type, finish, color, and condition all matter, so I always recommend testing any treatment in an inconspicuous area first.
In the video below, I demonstrate a product I use in my workshop, Obenauf's Heavy Duty Leather Preservative, on a piece of Bison leather. This is a quick, impromptu demonstration showing how a light surface scratch can be softened with a small amount of product and gentle buffing.
The result you see here is specific to this leather and this type of surface damage. It should not be assumed that the same treatment will produce the same result on another leather.
Always test any leather cleaner, conditioner, or treatment in an inconspicuous area first and follow the manufacturer's instructions.
The product shown in this video is [Obenauf's Heavy Duty Leather Preservative] https://amzn.to/4xEJVTQ. This is one of my go-to leather-care products, and I've used it in my studio for years. I use it on most of the leather jewelry and accessories I make before they leave my studio, with the exception of suede and certain lighter or highly saturated colors that may darken with conditioning. I also use it on my own leather sofa, which I've had for more than 20 years.
Affiliate disclosure: If you purchase through this link, I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you.
When a Scratch Is More Than a Scratch
If the leather has been cut, deeply gouged, cracked, peeling, or torn, applying a conditioner may improve its appearance temporarily but won't repair the underlying damage. In those situations, additional repair may be necessary.
Leather 101
Leather 101: Understanding the Leathers I Use
Leather isn't a one-size-fits-all material. Different hides have different characteristics, textures, weights, finishes, and levels of durability—and those differences can influence how a finished piece looks, feels, wears, and should be cared for.
Below are descriptions of some of the leathers I use in my clothing, accessories, and jewelry designs. I've worked with many of these leathers for years, and I hope this information gives you a better understanding of the materials behind my work and helps you make an informed decision when choosing a leather piece.
When choosing leather for a custom or ready-to-wear piece, the differences between hides can matter. I created the video above for my customers who asked about the differences between lambskin and sheepskin and wanted help deciding which leather would be the better choice for their Heaven Halter; Sheep or Lambskin.
The Leathers I Use and Why
Deerskin Leather is one of my favorite leathers to work with. It is incredibly supple and forgiving, with a distinctive natural texture, beautiful hand feel, and excellent drape. It has a very different character from lambskin—so much so that I would never describe the two simply as "soft leather." They feel, look, and behave very differently.
I use deerskin extensively in my jewelry and accessories, including tassels, Kama Braided Leather Rings, Kimani Earrings, and Amari Bracelets, and other pieces. One of the reasons I enjoy working with it is its ability to tolerate the hands-on processes involved in creating these designs. Its combination of softness, flexibility, and resilience makes it an exceptionally versatile leather in my studio.
If you're looking for a leather with softness and drape but want something with more natural texture and a different character than lambskin, deerskin is a wonderful choice.
Lambskin Leather is exceptionally soft, smooth, lightweight, and supple, with a refined hand feel and beautiful drape. It has a much smoother surface and a very different character from deerskin.
I use lambskin for pieces where its softness, clean appearance, and fluid drape are especially important, including my Heaven Halter, Selena Halter and Booty Shorts, Vixen Skirt, Baby Doll Skirt, and my leather flower designs and dragon scale pieces.
For the Heaven Halter, lambskin is one of the leather options available alongside sheepskin. The two offer different characteristics, so the best choice ultimately comes down to the look and feel you want from the finished piece.
Lambskin is one of my favorite choices when a design calls for a smooth, luxurious leather with beautiful drape and a soft hand.
Mendocino Sheepskin has a distinctive character that sets it apart from smoother, more refined leathers. It has a naturally textured, somewhat distressed appearance that gives finished pieces a beautifully lived-in quality while retaining a soft, supple hand.
I use sheepskin in several of my garment designs, including the Heaven Crop Top and Shorts, Heaven Halter, Rebel Cowgirl, and other custom pieces.
Sheepskin is a wonderful choice when you want a leather with a little more natural character while still maintaining softness and flexibility.
Goatskin Suede is one of my favorite suedes to work with. I refer to it as the "Cadillac of suede" because of its luxurious nap, incredibly soft feel, beautiful colors, and overall quality.
It has a wonderful combination of softness, flexibility, and strength, making it particularly well suited to garments and designs that need beautiful drape without feeling heavy.
I use Goatskin Suede in designs including the Darice Bikini Top, where it is paired with deerskin braided ties and tassels, and other pieces such as my Latifah Fringe and Arial Tassel Earrings, where the soft, luxurious character of suede is part of the design.
Pigskin Suede is exceptionally soft with a silky feel and beautiful drape. It has a distinctive character that makes it especially well suited to garments where softness and movement are important.
I use Pigskin Suede in designs including the Alie Basketweave Halter, Kyra Bootie Shorts, Kyra Set, and Sequoyah Halter.
Like Goatskin Suede, Pigskin Suede has a luxurious, tactile quality, but each suede has its own character and feel. The choice between them is often part of the design process itself.
Plonge Cow Leather is a smooth, clean cowhide with a refined appearance and a soft, supple hand. Compared with many traditional cowhides, Plonge has a more delicate feel and can have a look and hand that remind me of lambskin, while still retaining the character of cow leather.
I use Plonge primarily for my Rebel Cowgirl halter-style vest. It is particularly well suited to this design because of its smooth appearance, minimal visible blemishes and scarring, and beautiful drape.
Plonge is a wonderful choice when you want the clean, refined appearance of a smooth leather with the substance of cowhide.
Aztec Leather is a substantial, luxurious leather with a beautiful finished surface and a rich, distinctive appearance. At approximately 8–9 oz., it is considerably heavier than the garment leathers described above and is not a garment leather.
I use Aztec primarily for structured leather accessories, including various Cuffs and Bracelets, Cliff Booth bracelets, and Bund Watchbands. Its weight, body, and beautiful finish make it particularly well suited to pieces that need structure and durability while still maintaining a luxurious appearance.
This is one of those leathers where the material itself becomes an important part of the design. The weight, finish, and substantial feel are part of what gives these pieces their character.
Bison Leather is a substantial, distinctive leather with a beautiful natural character and a luxurious feel. I stock a few different types of Bison leather in my studio, and while their appearances differ somewhat, they share many of the same qualities that make Bison such a wonderful material to work with.
I use Bison for pieces including the Malia Tote and Wristlet, Busajja Cuff, Jaja Bracers, and other accessories.
And this is one leather I can speak about from plenty of hands-on experience. I've wet it, soaked it, rolled it, glued it, shaped it, and worked it in a variety of ways in my studio. In my experience, Bison is exceptionally strong and durable.
I've also had customers put their Bison pieces through some serious real-world use. One customer sent me photographs of their Busajja Cuff after taking it fishing, camping, and participating in other outdoor activities. The cuff had been exposed to plenty of the elements and held up exceptionally well.
Bison is not a delicate garment leather. It has substance, strength, and presence, which is exactly what I want when I'm creating a piece where the character of the leather is part of the design.
Kangaroo Leather
Kangaroo leather is a lightweight, strong, and exceptionally versatile leather that I particularly enjoy using for braided leather work. Its combination of strength, flexibility, and a relatively thin profile makes it especially well suited to intricate braiding and lacing where multiple strands need to work together without becoming excessively bulky.
I use Kangaroo primarily for braided cords and intricate leather braiding, including the Ashiro Necklace, which was constructed using multiple strands of Kangaroo lacing braided around a central core and African Turquoise beads.
Kangaroo is a wonderful example of how the characteristics of a leather can influence the construction of a piece. For detailed braiding, the leather needs to be flexible enough to manipulate while still strong enough to withstand the tension and handling involved in the process.
Have a Leather Repair Question?
Not sure how to deal with a stain, scratch, tear, broken handle, peeling leather, or other damage? Visit my Leather Repair & DIY Care Guide for practical information on what you may be able to do yourself—and when professional repair may be the better option.